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Source: Fashion UK
British men spend more money on skin care and grooming than any other European fellas but a dedicated cosmetics range for men still isn't on the cards. Adam Fulcher reports.
Men have worn make-up for centuries. In ancient times, Celts daubed themselves with woad, during the 18th century gentlemen donned white face power, blusher and beauty marks and in the late 70s and early 80s some British fellas became New Romantics and indulged in a cosmetics frenzy. Despite historical precedence, cosmetic companies are yet to create a comprehensive range of make-up designed especially for men.
The UK male grooming market is the largest in Europe, worth over £500 million a year having risen 35% from £431.5 million in 95 to £580.4 million in 99. Moisturiser is the most frequently bought beauty product by men - 67% of men under 40s admit to moisturising their skin regularly. From Aramis' Lab Series For Men, the Body Shop's Skin Mechanics for Men and Clinique's 3-Step Skin Care Programme, there's a huge variety of butchly-named and soberly packaged skin care ranges for fellas.
However, manufacturers see a huge divide between skin care and make-up. The thinking seems to be that straight and gay men need little persuasion to buy lotions and potions but aren't yet ready for serious slap-on. There are products which 'guard' against ageing (Aramis' U-Turn Age Defying Formula), facilitate the ultimate close shave (King of Shaves silicone enhanced Proshave) and hide late night excesses (Nickel's Lendemain de Fete), but no-one makes real men's make-up.
Millie, one half of hip make-up brand Ruby & Millie, believes that: "Male grooming is one thing and is tagged as a growth market, but men wearing eye shadow and mascara, I don't think there's going to be an onslaught. Some men will buy make-up and places such as Boots opening 'men only' stores indicates that companies are waiting for the grooming thing to really hit." Boots' two 'men only' shops (in Bristol and Edinburgh in which women are of course welcome), offer grooming goodies from a wet shave to a full-on facial but after an initial wave of publicity and promises of more 'men only' Boots stores, they've abandoned plans to open more.
Millie claims that make-up for men "is a lifestyle choice. Your local contractor in Newcastle or a plumber isn't going to wear nail varnish. If Ruby & Millie were going to do a men's make-up range, it would be marketed to a particular lifestyle." Currently only 1% of Ruby & Millie's customers are men. US company MAC reports that men are increasingly frequenting their counters and shops. MAC make-up consultant Terry Barber says: "Men are looking at magazines more and want to keep up with what they see."
Terry believes the times are changing. "Men are feeling far less awkward now and are more aware of taking care of their skin," he says. "We're moving away from the vanity aspect and men can use products without it being seen as effeminate. MAC treat skin as skin whether it's men's or women's. We've had men come in who want dark, shiny looking eyes, a look which Dolce & Gabbana used on male models. But, there's still a stigma attached to men wearing make-up." Terry can't yet see your average football supporter coming in to stock up on foundations.
Although Ruby & Millie won't be launching a cosmetics range specifically for guys in the near future, companies like Shiseido, Aramis and Clinique do see the virtue - and economic sense - of launching products for men similar to existing women's versions. Clinique recently launched Stop Signs Age Defending Complex and All About Eyes, because - as a spokesperson says: "We found men were borrowing their partners' products. But, the products were given more masculine packaging and names, Stop Signs Age Defending Complex in the women's range is Stop Signs Serum." Guys can't get enough of the stuff - both products are tripping off counters.
Perhaps companies are waiting to see who makes the first move before unleashing their own make-up ranges for men. Last October, Aramis launched Surface in the US (soon to be available in the UK), which is "a collection of self-improvement tools" containing products designed to "enhance the look and feel of the skin". The tool box of products utilises "the latest technology of blue reflectors and mirror spheres" and includes Healthy Look Gel and a Correcting Stick. Similar kits are bound to follow - keep your eyes peeled.
| MAC's Terry Barber's beauty tips | |
| [1] | Have a healthy shaving routine. Always shave in the same direction as your beard will almost start to grow in that direction and shave with the same strokes each time you shave. Don't skip from an electric to a wet shave. |
| [2] | Find a good basic cleansing product and a lightweight but protective moisturiser. |
| [3] | Choose make-up products appropriate to your skin. If a foundation is well chosen and matches your skin correctly then you need only apply with fingertips. If a product is mismatched it will need technical skill to make the product look good. Go for either a foundation or a tinted moisturiser which has a fine pigment and looks 'invisible' so you don't see the product sitting on the skin. |
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